Vines & Tines: Malbec in the City
Published 6:00 am Thursday, June 1, 2023
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The Rogue Valley was the most represented at Malbec in the City,” states JP (Juan Pablo) Valot, founder of this newly minted wine event in Portland. While there were more northern Oregon wineries present at the event, these wineries purchased the grapes mainly from Southern Oregon, with around 90 percent of the grapes coming from the Rogue Valley.
Malbec in the City was the first event showcasing Malbec wine in the U.S. Featuring only Oregon grown and produced Malbec, there were 18 Oregon wineries, four representing the Rogue Valley, with more than 40 Malbec wines available for tasting and sale. More Rogue Valley wineries had planned on attending, but there was a conflict with another event and some had to pull out. The four participating Rogue Valley wineries were Peter William Vineyard, Weisinger Family Vineyard, Ryan Rose Wine, and Grit Cellars.
Valot says he hopes there won’t be a conflict next year as, “This is something I do for my friends down south so they can be in Portland and people can see them.”
Eric Weisinger confirms, “It’s always great to have an opportunity to get up to Portland and expose our brand and represent Southern Oregon to the Portland area. The feedback we get from the public is overwhelmingly positive.”
Argentinian-born Valot, co-owner/winemaker of Valcan Cellars in Corvallis, knows good Malbec. He considers it a hidden gem in Oregon and sees it as the bridge between the lighter Pinot Noir and a big, bold Cabernet Sauvignon.
“If you don’t know what everyone likes, choose Malbec,” he says.
Malbec is multi-layered and complex, it tends toward a more rustic style with notes of spice and smoke, and perhaps a hint of violet. Southern Oregon, both Rogue and Umpqua Valleys, grow high quality Malbec because the thick-skinned grapes prefer sunshine, drier weather, and higher elevations, with diurnal temperature shifts of hot days and cool nights.
The expression of Malbec is terroir-driven presenting different characteristics depending on the environment. Versatility is often used as a descriptor, and it’s an easier grape to grow in Southern Oregon providing a “more minimalistic and hands-off approach” Valot explains, “Even for me, I was surprised at the quality and that means when the overall quality is good, the grapes are good. Malbec grapes are really a natural to Southern Oregon.”
At Valcan Cellars Valot makes 10 different styles of Malbec. There’s a White Malbec “Bare,” to “Doris,” a just released Méthode Champenoise sparkling, along with a traditional red that he calls Black Malbec.
Valot states, “Innovative Malbecs are fun and exciting.”
If you build it they will come, and they did.
“There were people I spoke with who were completely unfamiliar with Malbec,” Valot says, “[This event] literally made my dream come true.” He emphasized Malbec in the City “is not a competition, but to show our wines and how good they are.”
Peter Adesman of Peter William Vineyard says, “Malbec is one of those we can claim no one else does it any better. I wish I had planted more Malbec grapes.”
Mark your calendar for next year’s event on April 24. For information, see malbecinthecity.com.