Making a great hike even better: Seeing our surroundings with fresh eyes

Published 11:30 am Sunday, June 18, 2023

It had been a great hike.

Ten of us headed off from the Shoalwater Bay Trailhead on a traverse of Spence Mountain, a hike of nearly eight miles to the Spence Mountain Trailhead off Highway 140. It’s a trek that takes in a variety of sights, including an ever-changing array of wildflowers, distant views of snow-tipped mountains, an active bald eagle’s nest, and places to enjoy Upper Klamath Lake up close.

But this time there was something else — a reminder that, yes, we are privileged to live near beautiful places.

That lust for experiencing nature’s bountiful beauty was an unexpected bonus, thanks to a chance encounter less than a half-mile from the hike’s end.

Here’s how it happened.

From the Shoalwater Bay Trailhead, we worked our way to Junction 7, a distance of about 1.75 miles, where we regrouped. Some of us had fallen behind, pausing to admire views of still snow-capped Mount McLoughlin and to marvel at the proliferation of colorful wildflowers — Indian paintbrush, lupine, penstemon and more.

From the junction we followed the Modoc Trail, past a continuing array flowers and bushes — snowbrush, common Clarkia, and more. Friends and I had followed the same route three years earlier, but this time the trail was more thickly bordered by an array of vibrant, healthy trees, a mix of Ponderosa, sugar and lodgepole pines, Douglas and white firs, along with incense cedar. Through openings we caught stop-and-pause glimpses of Upper Klamath Lake and the Klamath Game Management Area.

It’s a pleasant, well graded 2.3 miles on the Modoc Trail to Junction 8 and the Winema Trail. The path dips downhill about a half-mile to Junction 9 and the North Star Trail. It’s the temporary home of Dirt Mechanics, the company that’s constructed most of Spence Mountain’s trails. Crews are currently extending the Queen of the Lake another 2-1/2-miles along the marsh.

Drew Honzel, who is overseeing much of the ongoing development on Spence for the Klamath Trails Alliance, says the new section of the Queen is “pretty unique, with some mature Ponderosa offering shade and peek-a-boo views of the marsh.”

He notes the soon-to-be open section is much gentler than the existing portion of the Queen, which is rated black diamond. It’s hoped the first section of the extended Queen will open this or next weekend. As a bonus, Honzel says Dirt Mechanics has added benches at three viewpoints.

From Junction 9 it was another 1.26 miles on the Winema Trail to Junction 10. As earlier, the trail is dominated by thickets of snowbrush and green manzanita, along with a lush, verdant array of other flowers — flax, yarrow, woodland star, wooly mullein and more.

From Junction 10 it’s just a short detour to an open area fronting Upper Klamath Lake’s Howard Bay. It’s a great place to have lunch and savor views of billowing clouds towering over the lake. We oohed and aahed when two pelicans stealthily and effortlessly glided just inches above the lake. Refueled and rested, we began the nearly two-mile trek to the Spence Trailhead.

The Queen of the Lake is rated most difficult because of its grade and, even more, its rocky sections where mountain bikers usually have to dismount and carefully walk. It’s also a section where hiking poles are recommended. While challenging, the Queen is worthy because of its frequent lake views and another sight, a high-in-the-trees eagle’s nest. Perched atop was a guardian eagle, as usual sitting as still as statute.

But it was an unexpected sight that capped off the hike and generated a wave of excitement.

Nearing the final uphill grade another hiker appeared. Because he was wearing a San Francisco 49ers ballcap, I asked where he was from. The hiker explained that he’d recently moved from Los Angeles to Klamath Falls to be closer to his sister. He didn’t explain the 49ers hat, but said he’s working at a furniture store. He said he’d been sitting and watching TV, enjoying his day off, when he decided to do something different. After studying the internet, he found information about Spence Mountain and the Queen of the Lake Trail.

Tantalized, he’d driven to the Spence Mountain Trailhead.

“I wanted to get out,” he explained, saying that he had done some hiking in his younger years. He wanted to renew that interest and wanted to get in shape. But he hadn’t been prepared for what he was seeing and experiencing.

“Look at this!” he shouted, smiling effervescently, bursting with joy, and enthusiastically waving at the panoramic view of the lake, lush forests, hills and mountains, all framed under the towering canopy of swirling clouds. “Beautiful! Unbelievable! I love it! I want to see more!”

It was a reminder that it’s easy to take the outdoors for granted, to forget the thrill and excitement of seeing and being in wide-open spaces.

Sometimes it takes fresh eyes to re-appreciate and revive our desire to explore and enjoy places near where we live.

Getting There

To reach the Shoalwater Bay Trailhead from Medford, follow Highway 62 to Highway 140, then continue past the Lake of the Woods and Rocky Point turnoffs. After about 61 miles, you’ll reach Eagle Ridge Road. Follow the signs about two miles to the parking area, which has an outhouse.

The Spence Mountain trail system remains under development by the Klamath Trails Alliance.

The group is also developing and maintaining trails for hiking, mountain biking, trail running and cross-country skiing at Moore Mountain, along with the Geo Trail, OC&E Woods Line State Trail and the Brown Mountain-High Lakes trails. The Spence Mountain trail system currently covers more than 47 miles, with plans for more trails in coming years.

Another ongoing project is the Chinquapin Trail, which will eventually terminate at the Shoalwater Trailhead. According to Drew Honzel, about a mile of the two-mile trail is complete and open for mountain bikers. Chinquapin is an intermediate downhill biking trail that “has a few features that you can ride around or take to challenge and improve your riding. There are great views, too, but we suggest keeping your eyes on the trail.”

Maps and information about Spence Mountain and the KTA are available at the group’s website at www.klamathtrails.org.

Recently Klamath Trails Alliance was awarded a $240,000 grant to expand both Spence trailheads and install vault toilets. The ARPA grant was funded through Klamath County, which is administering the federal grant. The Spence Mountain Trailhead, located on Highway 140, will be expanded from 25 cars to 55 vehicles. The additional space will help overcrowding on weekends when the trailhead is at capacity.

The Shoalwater Trailhead parking will grow from 50 to 95 vehicles. The additional parking will be used for overflow during events. Installation of waterless vault toilets will replace the existing Porta Potties and allow for continued growth as the trail network expands.

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