VINES & TINES: The Wine Stream: Legacy of Casa Madero
Published 9:00 am Friday, May 10, 2024
- Casa Madero grows many of the same varieties produced in Southern Oregon but the terroir of Mexico can bring out different flavors than the wines of Southern Oregon.
Thanks to a chance conversation, I have grown to appreciate a winery that has been operating for four centuries.
I was waiting at the wine counter at Harry & David Country Village in Medford some weeks ago, when another customer told me to look up the oldest winery in Mexico.
That it was established in the 16th century didn’t surprise me; what did was that it’s still producing wine and has been continuously for 427 years.
Casa Madero is the oldest operating winery in all of the Americas. It was founded in 1597 by Spanish missionaries, who introduced Vitis vinifera, known as the mission grape, by planting grape cuttings from Spain.
Located in the northern Mexico state of Coahuila, in between mountains and desert, the picturesque town of Parras de la Fuente (meaning “vineyards of the fountain”) was so named because of its large amount of natural springs and the abundance of wild grapes. While the wines and varietals have changed, this winery bears witness to the passage of centuries.
Casa Madero’s vineyards sit at 5,000 feet of elevation, and the winery has become a timeless symbol of Mexican winemaking, a tribute to the enduring legacy of viticulture in the region. Despite the challenges of time, the winery has not only persevered but thrived, emerging as one of the most recognizable Mexican wine brands, revered for its commitment to the artistry of winemaking and exporting to more than 27 countries.
The legacy of Casa Madero, the timeless allure of the vine, coupled with the newly emerging Mexican wine industry offers temptation, but to try many of their wines, you’ll likely need to visit Mexico, or purchase online, as only about 5% of their wine is exported. About 90% of the new wines are made in the Baja region, which includes the prominent wine area, Valle de Guadalupe.
Casa Madero grows many of the same varieties produced in Southern Oregon, such as chardonnay, chenin blanc, cabernet sauvignon, malbec and merlot, but the terroir of Mexico can bring out different flavors than the wines of Southern Oregon.
So, I suggest trying some of your favorite Mexican and Mexico-inspired dishes with Rogue Valley wines. Common Block has delicious Cold Brew Chicken Tacos that I recommend with the Quady North Pistoleta. It’s perfect with the subtle coffee flavor and spiciness of their taco.
If you’re a fan of rich, chocolatey mole or green chile rellenos, pair these dishes with a syrah, such as Padigan’s 2021, which is deep and bold. Padigan also offers a crisp and tropical sauvignon blanc that would pair beautifully with fresh ceviche and guacamole.
Among the favorites of Mexican wines, one grape stands out — Nebbiolo, the native grape from Piemonte, Italy, hailed as the star of famous Italian wines such as Barolo and Barbaresco. This grape, regarded by winemakers as the most representative of Mexico, found its home in the fertile terroir of Valle de Guadalupe where it flourishes, surpassing all expectations.
The Mexican Nebbiolo captivates the senses with its full-bodied opulence, remarkable for its luscious fruit-forward character and gentle tannins. Here at home in the Rogue Valley, Bayer Family Estate has a complex Nebbiolo to accompany a smoky, aromatic adobo sauce.
Whatever you decide on, wine and Mexican food are a centuries-old tradition not to be missed.