VINES & TINES: The Wine Stream: Syrah, syrah

Published 4:00 pm Thursday, February 15, 2024

The grapes used to make syrah have thick skins on the fruit, which contain high amounts of antioxidants.

Who isn’t intrigued by the inkiest of wines — syrah.

Swirling its rich, deep, almost opaque color, promises its medium to renowned full-bodied flavor. Syrah is also one of the healthier wines as the thick skins contain high amounts of antioxidants.

The thing about syrah is the first taste often stirs a vivid buffet of dark berries, which then melts into savory flavors of black olives, chocolate, peppercorns, meats, bacon — even mineral and leather can show up depending on where it’s grown — seasoned with baking spices.

Syrah is very terroir driven, which is one of the reasons it’s rather exciting. It can taste very different depending on where it’s grown. Always tannic and savory, syrah is a serious, and soulful red wine that shows off the expression of the land where it grows.

Syrah is a global favorite, and the iconic varietal of France’s Rhône Valley, it’s also an ancient grape with legendary stories including one that tells the tale of Shiraz grapes being brought from Persia and planted in France, which likely influenced the popular Australian version, known as Shiraz. Today, because of DNA advancement we now know this to be untrue.

Syrah is actually the offspring of two little known and seldom grown varieties indigenous to southeastern France — Dureza, a dark-skinned grape, and Mondeuse Blanche a white-skinned varietal, which places Syrah as originating from northern Rhône. What is unknown is when this cross-pollination occurred, but it does add a little romantic element this time of year.

The syrah varietal is the world’s sixth-most-planted grape. It grows in cool and warm climates, showing the distinctive flavors of the region. Here in the Rogue Valley, syrah grapes are grown throughout. From the Applegate with its Rhône-style climate, to the steeper and warmer hills of both the southern and northern Rogue Valley.

Put simply, cool climate syrah is likely to be a bit leaner with more red fruit notes, while a warmer climate is going to amplify a more lush profile with darker fruits, but the wonderfully distinctive peppery notes and complexity will be present in both.

International Syrah Day is Friday, Feb. 16 — that means it’s time to savor some Rogue Valley syrah!

Here’s some local wineries for tasting the variety of syrah produced in the Rogue Valley:

Cliff Creek Cellars: One of their flagship wines, 2017 & 2018 award-winning vintages available.

• Quady North: They offer their flagship syrah along with another four expressive labels and a fine GSM (grenache, syrah and mourvedre blend).

• Del Rio Vineyards: 2021, a fine example of a warmer climate syrah, but less tannic with softer expression of place.

• Troon Vineyard offers two outstanding syrahs. The 2021 received 95 points from Wine Enthusiast.

• South Stage Cellars has 2013 and 2014 vintages available to taste. 10+ years of age to rock your palate.

• Cowhorn Vineyard & Garden: 2019 vintage is bright with red berry and a more cool climate profile.

• Pebblestone Cellars: An award-winning 2016 Syrah.

• Peter William Vineyard presents three expressions of their 2018 Syrah, including a reserve, plus a GSM.

• Hummingbird Estate: A classic 2021 Syrah.

• Grizzly Peak Winery: An award-winning 2016 vintage with both rich and ripe red and black fruit.

• Schmidt Family Vineyards: An interesting varietal of several vintages is available to try.

• Naumes Suncrest Winery: Warm climate complexity in this 2018 Syrah. 2018 velvety GSM.

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